Building your 4" Pin Cushion Instructions.

NOTIONS:   Sandpaper (maybe) , Scissors, Strong thread or Floss, fabric marker, batting, ruler, pins, optional trim

Check your mounting ring in the pincushion base and note it should be just a little bit loose, leaving room for the linen to wrap around it and still fit back in the base snugly.  Linens vary in thickness by quite a bit, so we made it a bit larger rather than a bit smaller because you can easily reduce the size with some sandpaper if you feel the fit is too tight for your linen. ( the wood shaker pin base can change slightly with humidity and this can affect  the fit.)

Choose  your batting carefully as some is resistant to pins being pushed in when compressed. Try it out with sharp pins and be sure you can stick them in it.

Stitch the pin cushion  design  centered on a 10 x 10 piece of fabric.  Draw a circle 8” in diameter on the right side of the fabric in chalk or fabric marker,   centered around your design. (There should be a 1” margin outside of this circle to the center of the four  edges of the 10x10 fabric.)  

Baste stitch on the right side of the fabric on that circle,   leave a couple inches of thread on both ends.  I use strong crochet thread or 6 stands of floss.   

You probably now want to trim corners off of fabric about   1” outside of your basting stitches. 

Cut circles of batting   the same size as the mounting ring until they stack about 1-1/2 inches high whengently/moderately  compressed. (If the pin cushion is not somewhat  firm when finished it will be warpy around the edges).

I can’t  tell  you how many layers because there are  so many types and lofts of batting that folks already have on hand, so just know your pin base is 1 inch deep and you want a dome above that of about ½ inch. (Usually it is a bit more rather than a bit less batting.)

Lay fabric right side down on table, stack layers of batting in center of design, (an option here is to pin from design side or make a large baste stitch on  the finished side of your design into the first layer of batting behind it, (helps keep design centered) You just clip and the baste stitch out when you are all done) lay mounting ring on top of batting, gently gather fabric up over the mound , over mounting ring while pulling on ends of basting threads to cinch all together .  I specifically  go back and space the gathers to be as smooth as possible round the mounting ring edge. Check and be sure your design is still centered.

 I tie the basting threads initially into a strong bow like you do a shoe lace, just in case you need to adjust the fit. The mounting rings  gives your base a shape to insert   into the pincushion frame.  .  I specifically  go back and space the gathers to be as smooth as possible round the mounting ring edge.

Tuck the fabric ends (on the bottom of the pincushion base)  into the center of the cinch circle, or fold and flatten them on the bottom (some linens are heavy and some lightweight, so this ability to reduce the stump on the bottom varies)   so that  the bottom is somewhat flat, and then push that mound down into the pin base and confirm the fit.  If not happy with the shape, pull form out of pin cushion base and  untie shoe lace bow and add more batting or pull basting threads cinching tighter.  Once you are happy with the fit you can tie a couple square knots for permanent hold.

***Another idea: I really like to add trim (From the Cauldren)  around the pin cushion edges,  specifically the mini pom poms tuck right in and really make for a nice look. Tuck in and measure length for ¼” overlap and stitch the overlap secure, just tuck back in and sewing it down is optional.